Lapland Tour

Robens fan Sonny Kjaerside (pictured right) and his friend Buller (left), take an annual pilgrimage from their home in Vejle, Denmark to the wilds of Sweden. This is the diary of one of their trips to Abisko...

Day 1:

After 25 hours on the train and nearly three hours on the bus we arrive at the Vakkotavare hut. We grab lunch and reorganise our kit before setting out into the wilds. It’s only 10km to our first night’s camp but the path immediately rises 350m, it is 20° C and my pack is 31kg! We pitch camp at 17.30.  

Day 2:

We’re up at 5.30 and away for 8.25. We’re walking around 12km and there are signs of reindeer on route. We’re aiming for a waterfall across a lake – and this means a boat trip. In fact, three as by tradition we have to leave one of the available rowing boats on each shore for the next traveller to use. This take more than an hour but we eventually arrive at Teusajaurestugorna for lunch. We eventually camp at 18.00 – there’s a little rain and lots of reindeer.

Day 3:

Late start and rain. We follow the famous Kungsleden path that links old tracks. After 12km we camp that night shortly after the bridge over Tjäktiajåkka. Not much wind and no rain which at this time of the year often results in mosquitoes. There are other tents to be seen – this is a popular route.

Day 4:

Up at 6.00 - lot of wind and it feels cold. Away at 8.15, aiming to have lunch at Singi. We pass old trekker huts – temporary shelters covered in turf. We’re averaging 12km a day and are now entering the high fjells. We have an early 15.00 finish when we find a nice place to pitch and wash clothes.

Day 5:

Up at 6.00 and away by 8.50. We lunch before Sälka hut where we enjoy a blue Pripps Blå. This is the only kind of beer you can get – only 2.2 per cent but we kind of love it. After 15km we camp 18.30 – there’s a lot of ‘blockmark’ on the way (rain in the afternoon). Very exposed but our Robens Osprey 3EX easily shakes off the wind.

Day 6:

Up 6.00 and off by 9.15. Low clouds and heavy fog later - 17-18°C.
Arrives by Nallo at 11.30 – there’s so much fog that we didn't spot the hut until we are nearly on it. The fog is suddenly gone by 13.20. We enjoy a short break at Vistasstugan. After 15km and a lot of rain we camp up at 19.00. It’s been a good day – we saw two elk! The wind got quite heavy but the tent stood the challenge – we’re in good hands.

Day 7:

Up 6.30 – it’s raining. Good job we have a big porch! We set off at 11.15... We have lunch in the beautiful Visttasvaggi. We walk for 9km – mainly in rain – before pitching at 18.00. The rain turns to heavy wind.

Day 8:

There are two river crossings today and one took 15 minutes to complete. The image may not look impressive but it was very dangerous and crossings are no longer recommended at this point. A beautiful sunny afternoon - but lots of mosquitoes.

Day 9 - 10:

Off at 8.45 and, yes, it’s raining again. It takes us 45 minutes to find the Kungsleden. The day gets better when we camp early by Abiskojaurestugorna. We make use of the fine weather to wash clothes and enjoy a couple of Pripps Blue. We stay here for day 10 and get acquainted with the family who takes care of the place. We explore a rarely visited old WWII military bunker that's hidden in the wood.

Day 11:

We head for the valley Kårsavagge and pass at 1,130m, the highest point of our journey. This area is remote, tough and not recommended in bad weather with low clouds, but the rewards are well worth the trek. The Kårsavagge is very beautiful – especially when seen from the fjell-top. 

Day 12:

Only 12km to do over the next two days so plenty of time for birdwatching, etc. We camp at 14.30 and being so much nearer to Abisko we start to meet more people. Some are here to see the midnight sun.

Day 13:

It’s a sunny 21°C start when we leave at 8.10. We arrive at the Abisko Turist at 11.30 – perfect timing for a nice cold beer and a sandwich. The Fjällräven Classic was preparing for the fastest runners to arrive that afternoon. They are all ready for festivities – but we’re ready for home.